Pause Installation Guide – Jr.

Atari 2600 Jr. Pause Mod Installation Guide

Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damage done to your Atari. This mod is designed to allow you to pause your system. The mod will work if performed correctly to a fully functioning Atari. Perform at your own risk.


Tools You Will Need

  • Philips Screwdriver
  • Soldering Iron and Solder
  • De-soldering Tool (De-soldering Iron, Bubble, Vacuum, or Braid)
  • Wire Cutters/Strippers
  • Needle Nose Pliers
  • Drill with 1/4″ bit
  • Razor Blade

The first step is to assemble the mod kit. The components are all marked on the PCB, and you can also follow on the picture below. Make sure you put the 1k resistors on the outside and the 1.5k in the middle. The 1.5k will have a green stripe on it. The resistors and the ceramic disc capacitor can go in either direction. The 3 diodes and the 14 pin IC have to go in a certain way so make sure you follow the notches on the PCB and the picture below. Once you finish soldering all the components clip the excess leads off the bottom and you are done with the components.

102_0226

  • Next you attach the wires to the mod kit. The holes in the circuit board are labeled for the wires. In order from top to bottom the color is Black for GND, Red for +5v (Vcc), Yellow for 6507, and blue for TIA. The other two blue wires should go to Sw 1 and 2, they are for the switch. Use the wire strippers to take off about 1/4″ and solder the wires into the mod board. Then solder the other end of the blue wires to the switch. One wire should go to the middle pole, and the other to the top or bottom. It does not matter which one goes where for the switch. Now the mod kit is ready to go.

102_0229

  • Now your ready to open up the console. Turn the Atari over and remove the 5 screws. There are 3 tabs, one on either end and one in the middle. Use a flat headed screwdriver or some similar tool to bend the tabs like in the picture so you can take the top cover off. If the tabs break it is not a problem as they can be a pain to get off. You don’t really need them because the screws hold it together. Now take the main board out of the bottom case by pushing out two more tabs on the inside.

  • Turn the main board over and using the needle nose pliers, bend up and straighten the tabs around the metal cover.  That will allow you to remove the bottom cover and set it aside. Underneath it are more tabs to straighten. After that you can remove the top metal covers and set them aside too.

  • There are two modifications which must be made to the main board. First you must remove a resistor (R39), and then use the razor blade to cut a trace. Both locations are marked in the picture below. The resistor is 4.7K (Yellow-Purple-Red). You can remove the resistor by de-soldering or cutting it. If you cut it be sure to use your de-soldering tool to clear both holes on the top and bottom as you will be using them for attaching wires.  Make the cut with the razor blade right in the diagonal section, and be careful when cutting as you don’t want to damage other traces. This will sever the connection between pin 3 of the TIA chip and pin 3 of the 6507 chip.

  • When you are finished it’s a good idea to test for continuity between pin 3 of the two chips and make sure the trace has been severed. You can do this by using the holes marked TIA and 6507. Next it’s time to connect the wires. The Black GND wire goes to the nearest hole on the metal strip where the casing was. (There might be something in the hole but you can poke it out with the wire). The Red +5v goes to the bottom hole of R39. The Blue TIA goes to the open hole near the bottom of the board. The Yellow 6507 wire goes to the top hole of R39.

  • Now  you should test the Atari to make sure everything is working correctly. Attach the power and RF cable and fire it up. If the pause switch is on you will get a blank screen when powering on the system, so if you are not getting a picture try flipping the switch. If it still doesn’t work then check all of your connections and make sure they are correct. If it is hooked up correctly you should be able to pause your Atari (When paused the Atari will display random color or black output like the picture below, this is normal).

  • Now you are done with the board. Use the double sided tape and attach the mod to the top of one of the IC chips. Then put the metal covers back on and make sure all the wires are tucked inside and don’t come loose in the process. The blue wires for the switch should be coming out of the left side of the metal casing. You can also drill a hole in the casing to feed the wires through if you like. Be sure to bend the metal tabs so the casing holds in place.
  •  Now drill a 1/4″ hole for the toggle switch in the case. The location is pretty much based on your own preference, just make sure the blue wires are long enough and reach where the hole is. Remove the nut and washer and push the threaded part through the hole. Slip on the washer and then the nut and make sure it is tight enough so the switch doesn’t move around.

  • Now put the board back in the case. Make sure the power and color/b&w switch are in the right place or the cover won’t fit. It’s a good idea to do one last test before you put the screws back in. After that fire up a game and feel free to pause it whenever and get yourself a cold drink, you’ve earned it :) Then leave me a comment and let me know how it went….

Pause Installation Guide – 6 Switch

Atari 2600 6 Switch Pause Mod Installation Guide

 

Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damage done to your Atari. This mod is designed to allow you to pause your system. The mod will work if performed correctly to a fully functioning Atari. Perform at your own risk.


Tools You Will Need

  • Philips Screwdriver
  • Soldering Iron and Solder
  • De-soldering Tool (De-soldering Iron, Bubble, Vacuum, or Braid)
  • Wire Cutters/Strippers
  • Needle Nose Pliers
  • Drill with 1/4″ bit
  • Razor Blade

  • The first step is to assemble the mod kit. The components are all marked on the PCB, and you can also follow on the picture below. Make sure you put the 1k resistors on the outside and the 1.5k in the middle. The 1.5k will have a green stripe on it. The resistors and the ceramic disc capacitor can go in either direction. The 3 diodes and the 14 pin IC have to go in a certain way so make sure you follow the notches on the PCB and the picture below. Once you finish soldering all the components clip the excess leads off the bottom and you are done with the components. 102_0226
  • Next you attach the wires to the mod kit. The holes in the circuit board are labeled for the wires. In order from top to bottom the color is Black for GND, Red for +5v (Vcc), Yellow for 6507, and blue for TIA. The other two blue wires should go to Sw 1 and 2, they are for the switch. Use the wire strippers to take off about 1/4″ and solder the wires into the mod board. Then solder the other end of the blue wires to the switch. One wire should go to the middle pole, and the other to the top or bottom. It does not matter which one goes where for the switch. Now the mod kit is ready to go.
  • 102_0229
  •  No it’s time to open the Atari. Turn it over and remove the 8 screws. Set them aside for later. Disconnect the RF cable and set it aside. Then take both the switchboard and main board out of the case. Take off the black foam covers on the switches and set them aside for later.

  • Unplug the ribbon cable and remove the two screws on either side of the main board case. This will disconnect the main board from the switchboard. Also set aside the dust cover for the joystick and power ports. Now take the metal casing and turn it over. Unscrew the 6 screws there and set aside the bottom part of the metal casing.

  • Now remove the two screws connecting the main board to the top casing. Take the main board out and it is ready to be modified.

  •  There are two modifications which must be made to the main board. First you must remove a resistor (R207), and then use the razor blade to cut a trace. Both locations are marked in the picture below. The resistor is 4.7K (Yellow-Purple-Red). You can remove the resistor by de-soldering or cutting it. If you cut it be sure to use your de-soldering tool to clear both holes on the top and bottom as you will be using them for attaching wires.  Make the cut with the razor blade right in the diagonal section, and be careful when cutting as you don’t want to damage other traces. This will sever the connection between pin 3 of the TIA chip and pin 3 of the 6507 chip. When you are finished it’s a good idea to test for continuity to make sure the trace is severed, you can do this by testing at the pins marked TIA and 6507.

  • Next it is time to connect the wires. The Black GND wire goes to the top left hole in the board as pictured below (It looks like an IC should be there but it is missing). You might need to use your desolder tool first. The Red +5v goes to the bottom hole of 207. The Blue TIA goes to the top hole of R207. The Yellow 6507 wire goes to pin 3 of the 6507 IC. This is the most difficult to solder. The best way is to put some solder on the pin before you attach the wire. Then re-melt the solder and attach the wire. Be careful not to bridge the connection with the pins next to it and you don’t want to leave your soldering iron touching the pin for too long so you don’t risk damaging the chip.

  •  Now  you should test the Atari to make sure everything is working correctly. Attach the switchboard, power, and RF cable and fire it up. If the pause switch is on you will get a blank screen when powering on the system, so if you are not getting a picture try flipping the switch. If it still doesn’t work then check all of your connections and make sure they are correct. If it is hooked up correctly you should be able to pause your Atari (When paused the Atari will display random color or black output like the picture below, this is normal).

  • Now it’s time to put everything back together in reverse order. First use the double sided tape to attach the pause board to the top of one of the IC chips. Take the two light blue wires and feed them through the bottom hole in the metal case as shown below. Then put the main board back in the metal casing. Screw it into the top first, then put the bottom on and screw that as well. Attach the switchboard cable and put the whole board back into the bottom plastic case. Attach the 2 screws at the base of the switchboard.

  • Now drill a 1/4″ hole for the toggle switch in the case. The location is pretty much based on your own preference, just make sure the blue wires are long enough and reach where the hole is. Solder the blue wires to the switch. One wire goes to the center pole of the switch, and the other to either of the remaining ones. Remove the nut and washer and push the threaded part through the hole. Slip on the washer and then the nut and make sure it is tight enough so the switch doesn’t move around.

  • Replace the foam dust covers. Plug in the RF cable and feed it back through the bottom cover and then replace the top cover. Make sure everything fits and test the pause switch one more time before you put the screws back in. After that fire up a game and feel free to pause it whenever and get yourself a cold drink, you’ve earned it:) Then leave me a comment and let me know how it went….

Pause Installation Guide – 4 Switch

Atari 2600 4 Switch Pause Mod Installation Guide

Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damage done to your Atari. This mod is designed to allow you to pause your system. The mod will work if performed correctly to a fully functioning Atari. Perform at your own risk.


Tools You Will Need

  • Philips Screwdriver
  • Soldering Iron and Solder
  • De-soldering Tool (De-soldering Iron, Bubble, Vacuum, or Braid)
  • Wire Cutters/Strippers
  • Needle Nose Pliers
  • Drill with 1/4″ bit
  • Razor Blade

  • The first step is to assemble the mod kit. The components are all marked on the PCB, and you can also follow on the picture below. Make sure you put the 1k resistors on the outside and the 1.5k in the middle. The 1.5k will have a green stripe on it. The resistors and the ceramic disc capacitor can go in either direction. The 3 diodes and the 14 pin IC have to go in a certain way so make sure you follow the notches on the PCB and the picture below. Once you finish soldering all the components clip the excess leads off the bottom and you are done with the components. 102_0226
  • Next you attach the wires to the mod kit. The holes in the circuit board are labeled for the wires. In order from top to bottom the color is Black for GND, Red for +5v (Vcc), Yellow for 6507, and blue for TIA. The other two blue wires should go to Sw 1 and 2, they are for the switch. Use the wire strippers to take off about 1/4″ and solder the wires into the mod board. Then solder the other end of the blue wires to the switch. One wire should go to the middle pole, and the other to the top or bottom. It does not matter which one goes where for the switch. Now the mod kit is ready to go.
  • 102_0229

  • Next you need to open up your Atari. Turn the Atari over and remove the 4 screws. Set them aside for later. Remove the main board out of the console by disconnecting the RF cable. shown below. Take off the black foam covers on the switches and set them aside for later. Take the foil tape off the switches and you can try to save that as well but it isn’t a big deal if it rips off.

  • Using the need nose pliers, bend up the 4 tabs around the metal case. Remove the metal casing (top and bottom) and set it aside for later. You should now have the main board ready to be modified.

  • There are two modifications which must be made to the main board. First, you need to cut a trace with the razor blade, then you must remove a resistor (R201). The resistor is 4.7K (Yellow-Purple-Red). It’s location will slightly vary depending on what 4 switch version you have. Two different locations are pictured below, but it will always be in that general area. You can remove the resistor by de-soldering or cutting it. If you cut it be sure to use your de-soldering tool to clear both holes on the top and bottom as you will be using them for attaching wires.

  • Now this is the tricky part so be careful. There is a trace that needs to be cut with a razor blade that is marked with the small circle in the above pictures. You can cut anywhere along that trace you like. Be sure not to damage other traces. This will sever the connection between pin 3 of the TIA chip and pin 3 of the 6507 chip. When you are finished it’s a good idea to test for continuity between pin 3 of the two chips and make sure the trace has been severed. The picture below is what it looks like when finished.

  • Next it is time to connect the wires. The Black GND wire goes to the nearest hole on the metal strip where the casing was. The Red +5v goes to the top hole of R201. The Blue TIA goes to the bottom hole of R201. The Yellow 6507 wire goes to pin 3 of the 6507 IC. This is the most difficult to solder. The best way is to put some solder on the pin before you attach the wire. Then re-melt the solder and attach the wire. Be careful not to bridge the connection with the pins next to it and you don’t want to leave your soldering iron touching the pin for too long so you don’t risk damaging the chip.

  • Now  you should test the Atari to make sure everything is working correctly. Attach the power and RF cable and fire it up. If the pause switch is on you will get a blank screen when powering on the system, so if you are not getting a picture try flipping the switch. If it still doesn’t work then check all of your connections and make sure they are correct. If it is hooked up correctly you should be able to pause your Atari (When paused the Atari will display random color or black output like the picture below, this is normal).

  • Now you are done with the main board. Use the double sided tape and attach the mod to the top of one of the IC chips. Then put the metal cover back on and make sure all the wires are tucked inside and don’t come loose in the process. The blue wires for the switch should be coming out of the left side of the metal casing. You can also drill a hole in the casing to feed the wires through if you like. Be sure to bend the metal tabs so the casing holds in place.

  • Now drill a 1/4″ hole for the toggle switch in the case. The location is pretty much based on your own preference, just make sure the blue wires are long enough and reach where the hole is. Remove the nut and washer and push the threaded part through the hole. Slip on the washer and then the nut and make sure it is tight enough so the switch doesn’t move around.

  • Replace the foam dust covers and foil strips for the switches. Feed the RF cable back through the bottom cover and then put the board back in the case and replace the top cover. Make sure everything fits and test the pause switch one more time before you put the screws back in. After that fire up a game and feel free to pause it whenever and get yourself a cold drink, you’ve earned it :) Then leave me a comment and let me know how it went….

Pal

Pal Installation Guide


Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damage done to your Atari. This mod is designed to permanently remove the RF output. The mod will work if performed correctly to a fully functioning Atari. Perform at your own risk.


PAL Installations

This mod is designed to work on PAL systems as well. The installation will vary slightly because the board layouts are different for PAL systems. But 98% of it is done exactly the same. Here I will post pictures of different PAL models and the variations from the NTSC guide. The thing to remember is that while the boards may look different, the components are often labeled the same. For example, you pick up the audio on a 6 switch system from C210. Now C210 might be in a different spot on the PAL board but it is still where you get the audio from. so your best bet is to follow the instructions and just recognize that the picture might look different. Anything that is different will be listed below.


Atari 7800

  • Remove the 3 resistors circled. The yellow wire should go to the right side of the R32 hole, that is the audio spot. If you want pokey sound you need to add your own wire and connect it to the right side of R33 (You can skip the audio section of the NTSC guide).

 

  • Then the blue, red, and black input wires go to the same exact spot that is on the guide on my website. The NTSC and PAL instructions are identical for everything else. Cut the 4 pins and remove the small board coming out of the RF modulator, that is where the remaining input wires go. Then just put in the RCA jacks and connect the 3 output wires to them like in the guide.

 


Atari 2600 Jr.

  • This is the same from what people have told me. There are a few really unique and rare PAL versions out there though. If you think you have one of those let me know using the contact form and I’ll see if I can help. Otherwise just follow the guide and look for the same labeled components as the NTSC version.

 


Atari 2600 4 Switch

  • Same thing here, just follow the instructions to remove the transistor. Again, it might be labeled Q201 or Q202 depending on your version. Audio is taken from bottom of R208 or C206 and pins 1,3,4 are the same. The picture on the right says to take out R22 and R209/C209. This person said it improved the brightness and picture quality so give it a try if you like.

 


Atari 2600 6 Switch

  • The 6 switch should be exactly the same. Just follow the NTSC guide. Below are pictures of where you pick up the audio. The board layout is different but the components are numbered the same. The hole next to C210 is where you get the audio from. Remove Q202, and the pins going into the RF modulator are exactly the same so follow the NTSC guide for everything else. Removing R213 also helps improve the picture for some people too so remove that as well if you have it.

Atari 2600 Switch Repair (Power and Reset/Select)

One of the things that can often go wrong with an Atari are the switches. This is often the case on the 4 and 6 switch models. There are two types of switches, the Toggle Slide Switch (Power, Color/BW, and A/B Difficulty) and the Momentary Switch (Reset and Select Switches). The difference between the two is that the toggle switches are more narrow and can work in either direction while the momentary is wider and is spring loaded. You have a number of different options for repairing/cleaning these. They will be listed below in the order that you should try them.

Here are some of the tools you tools you will need, it will vary depending on the method used:

  • Needle Nose Pliers
  • Small Flathead Screwdriver
  • Soldering Iron and Solder
  • De-soldering tool (De-soldering Iron, Vacuum, Bulb, Braid)
  • Electronics Cleaner (Such as Radioshack Part #64-4345)
  • Q-tip
  • Rubbing Alcohol
  • Multimeter(Or any meter to test for continuity)

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